Combine the quahog clams and 5 cups of water in a deep pan, cover and simmer over medium heat until the clams have opened, about 12-18 minutes, discarding any clams that do not open.

Remove the meat and chop into bite sized pieces, then strain the cooking liquid.

Clean the pan and place back on the heat.

Save a handful of clams, either from the can or fresh, for frying, and place them in the buttermilk.

Add olive oil and bacon to the pan and cook until crisp, then remove with a slotted spoon.

Add leeks, celery, and salt, and cook until softened.

Add thyme, tarragon, and garlic, and cook for 1 minute.

Add the potatoes and wine, and cook until the wine is almost entirely evaporated.

Add enough clam juice to just cover the potatoes, a pinch of salt, and the bay leaf, and cook until the potatoes are fork tender.

Add the butter, clams, cream, bacon, and chives, and let the chowder come to a simmer, then remove from heat.

Heat 3 inches of oil in a saucepan to 350 degrees F.

In a bowl, combine flour, lemon zest, spices, and a good pinch of salt, and mix.

Working in batches, dredge the buttermilk-soaked clams in the flour, then fry until crispy and golden.

Plate up, top with the fried clams, extra chives, pepper, and a squeeze of lemon.